From the Russian Arctic Convoy Museum to the Pie Shop in Lochinver

Scotland really is a beautiful country when it's not raining, but today its grey and pouring!

Instead of rushing to check out, we had a leisurely breakfast (I had beans on toast!), before walking to Gairloch Square to The Mountain Coffee Company. We both had large lattes while sitting in the conservatory watching the rain and debating the plans for the rest of the day.

We wandered back to the hotel and jumped in the car to our first stop only a short drive away in Aultbea. Visiting the Russian Arctic Convoy Museum was a last minute decision, and it was definitely a good one. 

Described by Churchill as "the worst journey in the world," the Arctic convoys were a collaborative effort to provide aid to the Soviet Union to bolster its defence's against the invading German forces. The supplies were delivered by merchant vessels, escorted by warships and shielded by air cover. The route went through perilous Arctic waters, and the ships sailed under the constant threat of air, surface vessel and U-boat attacks. There is also a commemorative garden with 3,000 snowdrops, one for each of the  Allied servicemen who lost their lives - the Arctic Convoy veterans wear white berets, thus earning them the nickname ‘snowdrops’.





There was a fantastic exhibition and the video reliving some of the footage, as well as interviews with surviving mariners, was excellent. We spent much longer here than planned, but it was really interesting. We even bought a few bits and pieces in the gift shop; Iain was pretty unimpressed with the rations as you can see below. 



The next stop is Ullapool, and hopefully a visit to The Seafood Shack! It was another hour drive, but I was cursing the campervans; it's even worse when it is raining as its too dangerous to overtake. We eventually made it and the swear jar was full!

Ullapool is a reasonably big village with around 1,500 inhabitants. It was founded in 1788 as a herring port by the British Fisheries Society and was designed by Thomas Telford. There is a clock on Quay street which is said to be the most photographed clock in the Highlands; naturally, we also took a photo!


It was already lunchtime so we headed straight for The Seafood Shack; I was hoping for langoustines as I didn't get them last night. The place was busy, even in the rain, but we waited.




I obviously went with the creel-caught langoustines and Iain went with the haddock wrap which was equally delicious. I even bought a signed book.



After lunch, we wandered around the town and did a bit of shopping (It was freezing so I bought an outdoors top and some gin!). We then went to the Ullapool Museum which holds a broad social history collection related to crofting, the sea, education and learning, and also objects related to the founding of Ullapool. It was only a small museum but also worth a visit.

Once we finished looking around the museum, we wandered back to the car in the rain. Our final stop of the day, and our home for the night is Lochinver. We are staying at "The Albannach" in the Byre suite. The hotel used to have a Michelin starred restaurant but both the hotel and restaurant have been closed for a while as it has changed hands, but they are working to re-open in 2022.



We arrived in Lochinver and realised we needed petrol. There is an unmanned station but there is no place to put your card; instead, you have to essentially pre-pay using a machine and estimate what you need. The limit is £40 and then it just shuts off, very strange!

The hotel was just a 2 minute drive away, but we had nowhere booked for dinner. We didn't really want much given we had lunch a short time before so we stopped in at Lochinver Larder, or "The Pie Shop." The owner of the byre recommended it and there was a steady stream of people. 




I chose the Venison and Cranberry Pie, while Iain chose Chicken Curry. We asked for them heated and took them back to our accommodation. The owner did offer to re-heat them if we needed but I was sure they wouldn't last that long.


The pies were delicious! And we were stuffed!

We decided just to stay in since the weather was so bad, and given we have a ridiculous amount of beer and wine, we don't really need to go out!

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