The Bone Caves
It's not raining, so that's a plus!
We had a relatively long lie and wandered over to the conservatory of the main hotel at 9am. We had a wonderful breakfast with homemade granola and yoghurt, followed by free range eggs of your choice.
We had a relatively long lie and wandered over to the conservatory of the main hotel at 9am. We had a wonderful breakfast with homemade granola and yoghurt, followed by free range eggs of your choice.
Apart from a visit to the Bone Caves, we didn't have too much planned so decided to wing it.
On the way to the caves, we passed Ardvreck Castle; it is famous as it is where the royalist James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose was handed over in 1650 to the Covenanter forces by MacLeod, Laird of Assynt after the Battle of Carbisdale. The true history of this event is unclear. One account is that MacLeod, loyal to the Covenanters, arrested the weary, fleeing, Montrose and held him. Another is that he provided comfortable shelter, but betrayed Montrose for a £25,000 reward.
We did think about stopping to walk over to the ruin castle, but the campervans were taking up the parking areas so we thought better of it.
After 25 minutes, we reached the car park for the caves. The Bone Caves circuit, near Inchnadamph is a 4.5km/2.75mile walk which leads up a limestone valley to caves. These cave openings on a steep slope at the foot of a cliff have been excavated and were found to contain the remains of species such as lynx, reindeer and polar bear which once roamed the area.
We got in the car again and decided to drive the Drumbeg loop; Drumbeg Road is a single track road and one of the most scenic drives in Scotland. There are loads of passing places so we managed to stop to take in the magnificent views. It was only 24 miles, but it took an hour to drive. We considered stopping at one of the beaches on the loop, but again the carmpervans were out in force.
On the way to the caves, we passed Ardvreck Castle; it is famous as it is where the royalist James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose was handed over in 1650 to the Covenanter forces by MacLeod, Laird of Assynt after the Battle of Carbisdale. The true history of this event is unclear. One account is that MacLeod, loyal to the Covenanters, arrested the weary, fleeing, Montrose and held him. Another is that he provided comfortable shelter, but betrayed Montrose for a £25,000 reward.
We did think about stopping to walk over to the ruin castle, but the campervans were taking up the parking areas so we thought better of it.
After 25 minutes, we reached the car park for the caves. The Bone Caves circuit, near Inchnadamph is a 4.5km/2.75mile walk which leads up a limestone valley to caves. These cave openings on a steep slope at the foot of a cliff have been excavated and were found to contain the remains of species such as lynx, reindeer and polar bear which once roamed the area.
We didn't find any bones, but it was a nice walk apart from the peaty bogs (thank goodness for Gore-Tex walking shoes!) and midges (thank goodness for Smidge!).
Inchnadamph actually means "meadow of the stags" and while we didn't see any stags, we did see four female deer as we neared the car park at the end of the walk.
Inchnadamph actually means "meadow of the stags" and while we didn't see any stags, we did see four female deer as we neared the car park at the end of the walk.
We got in the car again and decided to drive the Drumbeg loop; Drumbeg Road is a single track road and one of the most scenic drives in Scotland. There are loads of passing places so we managed to stop to take in the magnificent views. It was only 24 miles, but it took an hour to drive. We considered stopping at one of the beaches on the loop, but again the carmpervans were out in force.
Once we navigated back to Lochinver, we decided to dump the car back at our accommodation and walk back into the village. It was a 30 minute walk to the harbour, and there just so happened to be a pub at the end of the road! The Wayfarer's Bar is a strange place, but it definitely had that local vibe. We stayed for a drink before returning to The Albannach to get ready for dinner.
Dinner is at Peets restaurant tonight which was recommended to us; its a local seafood place and I would love langoustines again, but I don't think my fingers can take the pain of shelling them.
Instead I had Thai crab cakes and moules marinière, which were in a lovely white wine sauce. We didn't have dessert and instead headed back to the byre to pack for an early start tomorrow.
It seems impossible, but we are going even further north tomorrow!
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